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Business & Tech

Trattoria Vivolo Serves Italian Cuisine Out Of A Vintage Diner!

Robust, reasonably-priced regional dishes that are big on flavor

Chef/proprietor Dean Vivolo of Trattoria Vivolo is going on 8 years at his bustling eatery on Halstead Avenue across from Harrison Metro-North and he is marking the new season with a variety of tasty contemporized specialties from North and South of 'the Boot.'

The 70-seat restaurant is housed in a sparkling vintage diner with counter and booth seating in the  front and an airy greenhouse in the rear. The entire restaurant has been beautifully maintained and refurbished and is highlighted with fresh flowers, vintage wines, Italian artifacts and burgundy and white table settings. Evenings the restaurant emits a charming glow. Plans are to offer al fresco seating later this spring.

Dean Vivolo, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, began his career training with his father Michael Vivolo, veteran chef/owner of the long running La Riserva in Larchmont. Dean was busing tables and learning the ropes at age 14. During and after his tenure at the C.I.A. Dean had opportunities to work in the kitchens of the former San Domenico in Manhattan and La Panetiere in Rye. He also honed his skills in front and back-of-the-house in Italy at Mantova del Lago in Sora and Trattoria La Lupa in Rome.

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A wonderful varied resume and customers are the beneficiaries. Flavors abound! On recent visits we enjoyed a variety of fresh seasonal salads and appetizers: a lovely grilled squid served with sliced portobello mushrooms and greens; a solid soppressata plate with slices of cured meats and gran Paduano cheese; and  calamari marinated with herbed olive oil served with olives and mixed greens. A light, refreshing way to go this time of the year.

Vivolo's thin-crusted individual pizzas are a must! We made quick work of the Pizza Margherita with tomato, mozzarella and basil.

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The new seasonal menu includes such enticing 'Antipasti' as: Giamberetti all' olio e fagioli, jumbo shrimp sauteed with canellini beans, olive oil and rosemary; CrespelleToscana, thinly sliced eggplant filled with ricotta, spinach and fresh herbs; and a decadent version of Crostino di Polenta, polenta topped with wild mushrooms, gorgonzola cheese and tomato sauce.

This kitchen knows how to prepare memorable ragus and sauces. Flavorful pasta selections include: Bucatini all' Amatriciana, with pancetta in a spicy tomato sauce with pecorino cheese; Orrechiette di Troia, with sausage, cherry peppers, fresh bread crumbs, basil, garlic and oil; and a fine version of Linguine alle Vongole, a good white classic clam sauce. The house Lasagna al Forno is served the way we like it, Bolognese style.

Hearty 'Pesce' and 'Carne' specialties include: fresh Branzino Arrosto, pan-seared sea bass with garlic, lemon and extra virgin olive oil; Costoletta di Vitello alla erbe, a hefty grilled veal chop topped with fresh herbs and sauteed mushrooms; Gamberi con Prosciutto, grilled jumbo shrimp wrapped with prosciutto over arugula, peppers and fennel; Pollo Rustica, one of our favorites, sauteed chicken breast with garlic, rosemary, sausage and white wine; and a fine version of Sogliola Francese, filet of sole lightly battered, sauteed with white wine and lemon.

Vivolo's kitchen can be versatile. There are often pleasant surprises when new dishes are announced verbally that are not on the printed menu. These can range from traditional style rabbit or roast suckling pig to osso buco. As a complement to your meal a good wine list offers quite a few vintages daily by the glass.

At lunch the restaurant also offers a variety of fresh made 'Panini' such as: Panino con Prosciutto with prosciutto, fresh mozzarella, roasted peppers and balsamic vinaigrette; and Panino alla Milanese, breaded chicken cutlet, arugula and melted parmigiano cheese.

Save room for such desserts as the house Panna Cotta, Sfogliatina di Fragole, fresh strawberries and pastry cream in puff pastry, and a good Tiramisu.

Along with Dean Vivolo who often hosts, the friendly, attentive staff working the floor is an extra benefit to your dining experience. You're made to feel like part of the family: 'la famiglia Vivolo'!

Trattoria Vivolo is located at 301 Halstead Ave., Harrison (opposite Metro North station). Lunch is served Monday thru Friday, noon to 3 p.m. Main courses at lunch: $7.95 to $12.95. Dinner is served 7 nights from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Main courses at dinner: $11.95 to $26.95. Cocktails. Party facilities for up to 40 guests. Full take out. Seasonal outdoor seating. Major credit cards. Free and municipal parking. Wheelchair accessible. Casual dress. Reservations accepted. Phone: 914-835-6199. www.trattoriavivolo.com

(Morris Gut is a restaurant consultant and former restaurant trade magazine editor. He has been tracking and writing about the dining scene in greater Westchester for over 25 years. He may be reached at: 914-235-6591. E-mail: gutreactions@optonline.net)

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